After I had posted my DIY project of the stenciled Paris hamper last week,
I received many emails regarding my own methods of stenciling. When I write my posts, a lot of times I assume that the folks who are reading them have a good grasp of some DIY how-to details, so I just mention them but skip the gritty details. But, I am discovering that oftentimes they do not quite understand… MY BAD. So, I am happy to share some tips and tricks for a great stenciling project outcome. These are not official or the rules of stenciling, but they are just my own observations and tried-and-true methods following years and years of practice. So here are the tips for my Secrets of Successful Stenciling:
1. You need a good stencil. You can cut them yourself or purchase them online or at your local crafts store. Recently, I have purchased quite a few of these Paris-inspired stencils that I just love.
2. Your stenciling surface must be clean, smooth with no bumps or holes. It can be painted or stained, but not with a high gloss paint and no shiny finish coat such as wax or polyurethane. My piece is an old cupboard I had painted in a matte Benjamin Moore color called Saffron. Painted it with two coats and allowed to dry.
3. Place the stencil face up on the surface, measuring if you need to do determine the exact placement, then tape it down.
4. You need a stencil stippling brush (or whatever you call this kind of brush that is thick and has a blunt surface.) They are available in different sizes, but I typically use a fairly small brush, I find that it helps to control the stenciling process.
5. Use a matte paint (chalk paint is perfect for this). I have found that this produces the cleanest and sharpest lines on the stenciled surface and it doesn’t “bleed” under the stencil. “Bleeding” is when excess paint sneaks under the stencil and ends up looking like blotches along the edges of the design. Once the bleed happens, you need to stop immediately and remove the stencil and clean the underside of all errant paint blobs with a damp cloth, then allow to dry before you proceed.
6. Put a very small amount of paint into a bowl or non-porous surface. If I am using a small can or jar of paint, I often will shake the paint can, then remove the lid and use the paint on the lid. It is more than enough and provides a flat firm surface to dip your brush.
8. “Pounce” the surface of your stencil, covering all of the cut outs. Pouncing is when you hold the brush straight up and vertical to your surface and repeatedly dab it with the tip that has the paint on it.
Because you only have a small amount of paint on the brush, this means that the process is tedious and repetitive. As the brush runs dry, you re-dip into the paint, remove most of the paint onto the newspaper, then continue pouncing until the entire stencil surface is covered. If you start to get bored and want to just add more paint on your brush to get the process moving more quickly, DON’T. Just wrap up your brush, cover the paint and walk away and return after you have a cup of tea or watch some HGTV. You can’t hurry this process by globbing paint on the brush…that’s how you end up making a mess.
9. Once you’ve covered all of the design with the paint, lift one corner of your stencil to make sure you are happy with the overall effect.
If not, then tape it back down and re-pounce over the areas you wish to darken. If so, then carefully lift off the stencil and allow to dry. If you do have any “bleeds”, take a damp Q-tip and clean it up before it dries. If you are adding more designs to your piece, make sure one section is completely dry before starting a new one, or the design will smudge.
10. Once your stencil is finished, you can distress it by lightly sanding it. Otherwise just add a coat of wax or your favorite finish. As you can see by the photos, as you continue to use the stencils, the paint will build up on the surface and clog the smaller cuts. I clean mine with a damp paper towel. Don’t rub hard and don’t bend or crease the stencil! Once that happens, its time for a new stencil. So there you go! A hopefully helpful DIY tutorial on the secrets of successful stenciling. Hope you have a successful Monday, everyone! Susan
My latest project was a fancy remake of an old wood hamper Coach and I picked up for $3 at a resale shop called Junk In The Trunk-cute name, huh? These wooden hampers were popular back in the olden days and the condition of this one certainly showed its age. But, this was a heavy, solid wood piece with a particle board lined interior with holes for airing out your dirty laundry. A little paint, a little glaze, some stenciling and some burlap…the hamper went from this
1. Cleaned hamper thoroughly, as it had been hanging around outside the shop so it was quite dusty. Fortunately, since it was outside, it didn’t smell musty (also maybe because it has all those vent holes ” ).
2. Painted the body of the hamper with two coats of Annie Sloan French Linen
( I mean, really, what else could I use??) a rich, deep neutral color.
Allowed to dry. DIY tip: If you have a little “mouse” sander like I do and you’re working in your PJ’s and you run out of the little pre-cut sandpaper and don’t want to get dressed to run to the store to buy another package, here’s a simple and cheap solution. Take any sandpaper, cut to size and just stick on the surface with some duct tape. Doesn’t slide and works perfectly in a pinch.
4. Taped off the edges of the top to leave them stained, which created a “frame” for the top stenciled picture. Painted a layer of Folk Art Crackle Medium on top of the gel stain,. Allowed to dry.
5. Painted a coat of Annie Sloan Old White Chalk Paint
6. Lightly sanded, then stenciled the top with this Paris stencil from Americana.
I used black because I wanted to co-ordinate with the Paris fabric with black images on it. Americana has a whole line of these French Typography stencils which are so pretty! And sooo much less expensive then the online typography stencils… these are $6.99, and if you happen to have a coupon at Michaels…
7. Added a coat of Americana Creme Wax in a clear finish to enhance the colors and the wood edge. Allowed to dry, then buffed for a soft, glowing finish.
8. Since I knew I was adding the burlap to the front, I wanted to tone down the gray color of the piece. First I sanded the trim just to distress a bit and enhance some of the tiny brass brads, then added a coat of Americana Creme Wax in a medium brown color.
This brought out the golden tones which I knew would work well with the burlap. Painted on, wiped away wherever I didn’t want it to stay, allowed to dry. Buffed. HINT: If you put too much on or it starts to dry too quickly, you just take a damp cloth and wipe it off.
9. I found this Crafty Cuts French print burlap at Michaels. 1.5 yards for $9.99, use a coupon= cheap!!!
Before I cut the burlap, I ironed some fusible backing on to the reverse side. Burlap frays very easily and the more you work with it, the more frayed it becomes. By ironing on the backing, it stops the fraying and keeps the edges clean.
Make sure when you iron this stuff that you avoid the fusible glue, or else your iron will look like this, and Coach will not be happy when he tries to iron his shirt (yup, Coach does his own ironing : ) Hmmm. Wonder if one of those shirts cost $10…?
If you do not have one of these, you need to go get one immediately, along with the cutting board with all the measurements on it. These save a lot of time and effort when you are trying to cut straight lines, whether its for paper or fabric. But not wood, it doesn’t work for wood.
11. I originally tried using decoupage glue to affix the burlap, but it just didn’t stick. Burlap has a rough texture and requires something a little heavier. So I went with Elmer’s Glue-All, which worked beautifully. It does say Glue-All, after all…read more
Hey, so it’s been awhile since we visited the thrifty transformation of my mom’s kitchen. My last episode of the kitchen makeover saga was the installation of the travertine subway tile backsplash...and that was back in the fall! I’ve been slowly making my way through multiple projects, including transforming a charming bookcase for all of mom’s cookbooks, painting the adjacent dining room, adding a shelf…but mainly I just kept putting off the crown molding installation along the top of the cabinets…because I simply didn’t know how to do it. This is the before picture, with painted and glazed cabinets ready for their crown. They just look so square…
I had attempted crown molding cutting in the past, with miserable results. I just couldn’t figure out all the angles…until I found Sawdust Girl on Pinterest!
This tutorial with the photos and graphics is simply the best with the most complete and least confusing instructions for the proper installation of crown molding. My post today is not actually the how-to, I am leaving that to Sawdust Girl to show you the way…to a crowning achievement! I am simply sharing a few do’s and don’ts for your reading pleasure. I downloaded these pics onto my phone for easy reference as I went along. I referred to them continuously while I was trying to figure out which way to mitre and bevel.
Outside left cut:
As I was trying to figure out how exactly I was going to find 36.1 and 33.9 for my bevels and miters (kind of sound like I know what I’m talking about, right?), I looked more closely at my Ryobi Miter Saw and lo and behold, the numbers were right there on the saw! With a locking position for each one-woo hoo!
With a sigh of relief I started my measuring and cutting according to Sawdust Girl’s instructions. It made me feel a little better when I was reading her instructions and she said that she gets confused every time she does these cuts! So, its not just me…
The first cut may be the deepest, but the last cut is the scariest. This is the final cut to the exact measurement of the length of the piece. Fortunately my little Ryobi Miter Saw has a laser beam that helped keep my on the straight and narrow : ) Too bad that laser couldn’t make the cuts as well…
This is the money shot, the one you cannot screw up or you have to start over. Which I did, more than once, despite Sawdust Girl’s best efforts to guide me.
NOTE: A big DON’T. In the middle of the installation, DO NOT offer to cut some wire flower stems in your little miter saw for your mom’s spring flower arrangement she is working on in another room…because you’re procrastinating and not cutting molding. They will melt and get all twisty and stuck in your saw blade.
Once the cuts were made, it was time for the installation. Now, with short pieces, its pretty easy to hold it with one hand and hammer it in with the other as long as you hammer the nail into the trim 1/2 way to get it started. (Well, actually its not that easy, and I am totally getting a nail gun, despite Coach’s fear that I will somehow maim myself with an errant shot.) But with the long pieces, its near impossible to attach one end if the other end it hanging down. Sometimes you just need your mom…to use her fabulous zebra broom stick to hold up the other end while hammer yours into place.
I finished one section, then had to leave for the day. When I returned the next day to finish up, I was delighted to discover that the molding I had installed was still hanging proudly on the cabinet! Yay! I finished the install, using a hefty amount of spackle to fill up those nail holes and even out the corners…which were not quite as perfect as I would have liked. But, hey, that’s why they invented spackle, right? So here is the finished molding, my crowning achievement in the Thrifty Kitchen Makeover, all painted and glazed to match the cabinets. Is it perfect? Heck. no! But it looks great and mom is loving it…and that is all that really matters.
A special thanks to Sandra Powel AKA Sawdust Girl , my new DIY BFF, who gave me the courage to make those cuts and finally finish the crown molding installation! Just a few more tweaks and we’ll be ready for the final reveal. Hope you achieve something special today as well! Susan
- Previous page
- Next page